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Lipstick shade finder: try shades for your undertone

Nine lipstick colors drawn on your own lips, on camera or from a photo, keeping your lips' light and shadow. Below: what suits which undertone, and why nude moves with your skin.

Example

Plum

Berry

Mauve

Rose pink

True red

Nude rose

Coral

Brick

Terracotta

The fastest way to test a lip is on your own mouth, in your own light. The full scan adds your season, which tells you which side of these nine to start from.

Find my colors

Full Color Report

The try-on shows any shade. The report names yours: lipsticks, blush and eye colors.

$19one time. No subscription.

An in-person color analysis costs about $200 to $600. See a cost guide

Sample

Full Color Report

Bright Winter

Sample report image of a fictional person wearing Hot Pink, marked as a best color
Best Hot Pink
Sample report image of a fictional person wearing Dusty Rose, marked as a worst color
Worst Dusty Rose
Sample, on a fictional example person. The report's images are AI images.

What's included

  • Fifteen AI pictures of you: 3 best colors beside 3 worst, your lead color, 3 hair colors, day and evening makeup, 2 outfits, and glasses with jewelry
  • What we measured on your face: undertone, depth, clarity and contrast, and how close your second season was
  • Your full palette of about 40 named colors, with hex codes and how to use each group
  • Your colors to avoid, why, and how to wear them away from your face
  • Makeup from foundation to nails: lips, blush, eyeshadow, liner and brows, with a day and an evening look
  • Hair colors to choose and to skip, and what to say to your colorist
  • Metals, jewelry, glasses frames and leathers in your colors
  • Your contrast level, your white and your black, suit and coat colors, prints, fabrics and denim
  • A capsule wardrobe as outfit formulas, every piece in your colors
  • A shopping guide: the color names to search for and the label words to skip
  • The "Does this suit me?" checker for anything you might buy
  • Your second season, and when to borrow from it
  • A PDF of the whole report, a swatch card, a phone wallpaper and a share card, saved to your account
See a sample report

What this lipstick shade finder does

It puts color on your actual lips and lets you flip through shades. A face landmark model finds your mouth among 478 points on your face, and the shade is painted inside that outline. We multiply the color by your lips’ own light, so the shading stays and the highlights still read as highlights, and a very bright glint passes through. It runs from your camera, from one photo, or on a fictional example person. The camera is the most useful of the three, since you can talk, turn your head and see the color move with you.

Here are the limits. You get nine fixed shades, shown as dots with the name of the one you pick on the Lips tab, and the figure below names them in the same family order. The tool doesn’t filter them for you: the undertone advice is on this page, and the decision is yours. It has no brand catalog, so it can’t say which bottle matches a dot. It draws a single opaque finish, with no matte, gloss or sheer setting. On your own camera or photo, the finder’s clip and which-is-better picture use these shades while you’re on this tab, and a screenshot works too.

The nine shades, sorted the way they matter

Lipstick advice mostly comes down to whether a color has blue or orange in it. We can measure that from where each color sits on the color wheel. Here are the nine going around from the blue side to the orange side, with a hex code you can use as a reference when you shop.

Plum

#572041

Berry

#7C1C42

Mauve

#935567

Rose pink

#C9547A

True red

#AD1729

Nude rose

#B4706A

Coral

#D65A48

Brick

#853122

Terracotta

#A94E38

Fig. 1The finder's nine lip shades, placed in hue order and read from the colors themselves. Hex codes are what the tool draws. A lipstick won't match its hex exactly on your lips, because your own lip color and the formula both count.

By that measure, plum, berry, mauve and rose pink sit on the blue side, true red and nude rose sit in the middle, and coral, brick and terracotta sit on the orange side. True red is the interesting one. It lands right between, which fits why people argue about whether a given red is “warm”. In hue order the full list runs plum, berry, mauve, rose pink, true red, nude rose, coral, brick, terracotta.

What lipstick shade suits my undertone?

The usual rule is to match the lean, and it’s a styling convention with no research behind it that we could find. That said, it’s a useful place to start.

  • Cool undertones tend to start well on the blue side: plum, berry, mauve and rose pink. If your skin picks up pink easily, these often look settled.
  • Warm undertones tend to start on the orange side: coral, brick and terracotta. Blue-based pinks can look chalky or separate from golden skin.
  • Neutral undertones can usually go either way, so start in the middle with true red and nude rose and try one step to each side.
  • Olive undertones are the awkward case. In IPSY’s interview, analyst Brooke Ann says warm reds like chili or coral can look “too orange, harsh, or light” on olive skin. Try berry and mauve first, and see the olive undertone page.

Don’t know your lean? What undertone means explains it, and the undertone test gives you a reading. Or run the check directly: rose pink against coral, which are about the same lightness and differ mainly in hue. Watch your skin as you flip between them.

Do berry and plum suit cool undertones?

Usually, and they’re the classic pick. The catch is depth. Plum is far darker than the lightest Monk tone and almost level with Monk 9. So on very fair skin it’s a dramatic evening lip, and on very deep skin it’s closer to an everyday one. Cool undertone tells you the side of the ring, and depth tells you how far you can go on it. Warm skin isn’t shut out of plum either, though a browner version may feel easier.

What’s a safe everyday nude?

There’s no such thing as one nude, and this is the most useful thing the numbers show. “Nude” means close to your own coloring, so it moves with your skin. Here is every chip on all ten tones of a published scale.

Monk tone12345678910
Nude rose
clear
clear
clear
clear
soft
tonal
soft
soft
clear
clear
Coral
clear
clear
clear
clear
soft
tonal
soft
soft
clear
clear
Rose pink
clear
clear
clear
clear
clear
tonal
tonal
soft
clear
clear
Terracotta
clear
clear
clear
clear
clear
soft
tonal
soft
soft
clear
Mauve
strong
clear
clear
clear
clear
soft
tonal
soft
soft
clear
True red
strong
strong
strong
strong
clear
soft
tonal
tonal
soft
soft
Brick
strong
strong
strong
strong
clear
soft
tonal
tonal
soft
soft
Berry
strong
strong
strong
strong
clear
clear
soft
tonal
tonal
soft
Plum
strong
strong
strong
strong
strong
clear
soft
tonal
tonal
tonal
Fig. 2Each chip drawn on each Monk swatch, with a word for how far it stands from the skin in lightness. The outlined square in each column is the chip closest in lightness to that tone. It compares lip color to skin, and your own lips aren’t in the picture, so read it as a guide to how much a shade stands out. Monk Skin Tone Scale by Ellis Monk with Google, used under CC BY 4.0.

The chip named Nude rose is almost level with Monk 6, so it’s a real nude there. On Monk 1 it’s far darker than the skin and on Monk 10 far lighter, so on either end it reads as a statement. For Monk 7 the nearest chip is mauve, for Monk 8 brick and for Monks 9 and 10 plum. Those colors are nobody’s idea of beige, which is why a beige lipstick so often looks chalky on deep skin.

One gap you should know about. On Monk tones 1 to 4 even the closest chip is clearly darker than the skin. Our nine shades don’t include a pale nude, so fair skin won’t find one here, and will have to read nude rose as a stronger color than its name suggests.

You don’t want an exact skin match, in any case. A lip that disappears removes one of the things a face is organized around. In the faces Porcheron and colleagues measured, the lips were always darker than the skin around them. So our rule of thumb, and it is only ours, is to look for your own lips’ color or a touch deeper, on the side of the ring that suits you.

Contrast: how strong should it be?

Makeup advice ties lipstick to your facial contrast. L’Oréal Paris suggests soft, natural looks for low contrast faces and rich colors such as plums and crimsons for high contrast ones. That’s a popular theory and not a finding, and our face contrast guide goes through it, with what research did measure.

There is some research on lips themselves. Stephen and McKeegan had participants adjust lip color on calibrated photos of Caucasian faces. They increased redness to make women’s faces look more feminine and attractive, and greater lightness contrast helped attractiveness for both sexes. And Porcheron’s cross-cultural work notes that lip contrast changes with age differently across groups, and suggests that shades may work differently across races and cultures. Neither tested what shade suits whom. We’d take from them only that lip color is a strong signal in a face, so a small change is easy to see.

Do blue-based lipsticks make teeth look whiter?

You’ll read this everywhere, and we couldn’t find a study behind it. Basic color science doesn’t obviously back it either. Chevreul’s simultaneous contrast says a color seems to shift toward the complement of its neighbor. On that logic, an orange lip should push nearby teeth toward blue, and a blue-red should push them toward yellow, the reverse of the usual claim. Lightness probably matters more: any deep lip makes what’s beside it look lighter by comparison, and blue-reds are often sold in deep versions. Check this one on your own face. It takes one flip between true red and coral.

Should lipstick match your foundation’s undertone?

It doesn’t have to. Lips are a separate color on the face, so a contrast in temperature can look deliberate, and a blue-red on warm skin is a long-standing classic. Where a mismatch shows is in the nudes. A nude has to sit close to your skin to work, so a pink-beige nude on golden skin, or a peach one on rosy skin, tends to look like a mistake where a stronger color would look like a choice. So match your foundation with care, and let your lipstick off the hook unless it’s meant to be invisible. If your base is still uncertain, the foundation shade finder and its jaw test will settle it.

How do I test a lipstick without buying it?

  1. Use this tool for direction. Sit facing a window. Compare a blue-side and an orange-side chip of similar depth, then go lighter and deeper on the side you liked.
  2. Look at the whole face. Skin clearer or sallower? Shadows softer or stronger? Is the lip the first thing you see, and do you want it to be?
  3. Keep a screenshot. Bring it with the hex code to a counter. Names won’t translate between brands, and a picture will.
  4. Check the real one on your lips. Swatching on your hand can’t tell you how the color sits on your lip’s own pigment, particularly with a sheer formula. Use a disposable applicator, and walk to daylight.

What the preview can’t tell you: how sheer or opaque a real product is, whether it shifts through the day, or how it behaves over naturally darker or two-toned lips. Ours covers evenly. It also needs to see your mouth, so a hand in the way or a sharp head turn can throw it off.

Season guides go further for specific palettes: Soft Autumn makeup, Soft Summer makeup, Deep Autumn makeup, Deep Winter makeup and True Summer makeup. A lip always reads against the skin around it, so it pays to look at both together. The Full Color Report names makeup shades for your full palette.

Related guides and tools

Sources

  1. Face landmark detection guideGoogle AI Edge
  2. Lip colour affects perceived sex typicality and attractiveness of human faces. Stephen ID, McKeegan AMPerception 39 (abstract read), 2010
  3. Aspects of facial contrast decrease with age and are cues for age perception. Porcheron A, Mauger E, Russell RPLOS ONE 8(3), 2013
  4. Facial contrast is a cross-cultural cue for perceiving age. Porcheron A et al.Frontiers in Psychology 8:1208, 2017
  5. What Is the Contrast Makeup Theory?L'Oréal Paris
  6. How to tell if you have olive skin, according to expert makeup artistsIPSY
  7. Michel Eugène ChevreulWikipedia
  8. Monk Skin Tone ScaleWikipedia

Common questions

What lipstick color suits my skin tone?
Your undertone picks the side and your depth picks how strong it reads. Cool skin tends to start with berry, mauve and rose pink, warm skin with coral, brick and terracotta. A shade that's subtle on deep skin can be dramatic on fair skin, so judge it on your own face.
What is the most universally flattering lipstick?
We don't think one exists. A shade with a similar hue to your own lips, a touch deeper, comes closest to working for everyone, and that's a different color on each person. In our nine, true red sits between the blue and orange sides, which may be why so many people can wear some version of it.
How do I know if a red is warm or cool?
Compare it with a clearly orange red and a clearly blue one. A red that leans toward tomato or brick is warm, and one leaning toward raspberry or wine is cool. Our true red sits in the middle, which is why it can pass for either.
What's the best lipstick for fair skin?
Any depth can work, as it's a question of how much you want it to stand out. On fair skin even a nude rose is a clear step from your skin. Our nine shades have no pale nude, so try the real thing in a shop if that's what you're after.
What's the best nude lipstick for dark skin?
One near your own lip color, which usually means deeper and richer than anything labeled nude in many ranges. Among our nine, plum sits closest to the deepest tones and brick and mauve closer to brown skin. Avoid judging a beige on a counter tester, and try it on your lips.
Does the lipstick try-on work on a photo?
Yes. Upload one forward-facing photo, and it finds your lips and recolors them. The camera is more useful for comparing, since you can flip colors and watch your own face move in real light. You can also try it first on a fictional example person.