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Foundation shade finder: match your depth and undertone

Your camera estimates how deep your skin is and which way it leans, then gives you a family to shop in. It won't name a brand's shade, and here's how to get from one to the other.

Example

A foundation family

Medium, neutral undertone

A family to shop in, with the neighbors above and below to try as well. Never a brand’s shade.

Knowing your family narrows the wall of bottles to a few to test. The full scan adds your season, undertone and contrast, so makeup and clothes agree.

Find my colors

Full Color Report

A foundation is one shade. The report adds your lipsticks, blush, eye colors and what you wear.

$19one time. No subscription.

An in-person color analysis costs about $200 to $600. See a cost guide

Sample

Full Color Report

Bright Winter

Sample report image of a fictional person wearing Hot Pink, marked as a best color
Best Hot Pink
Sample report image of a fictional person wearing Dusty Rose, marked as a worst color
Worst Dusty Rose
Sample, on a fictional example person. The report's images are AI images.

What's included

  • Fifteen AI pictures of you: 3 best colors beside 3 worst, your lead color, 3 hair colors, day and evening makeup, 2 outfits, and glasses with jewelry
  • What we measured on your face: undertone, depth, clarity and contrast, and how close your second season was
  • Your full palette of about 40 named colors, with hex codes and how to use each group
  • Your colors to avoid, why, and how to wear them away from your face
  • Makeup from foundation to nails: lips, blush, eyeshadow, liner and brows, with a day and an evening look
  • Hair colors to choose and to skip, and what to say to your colorist
  • Metals, jewelry, glasses frames and leathers in your colors
  • Your contrast level, your white and your black, suit and coat colors, prints, fabrics and denim
  • A capsule wardrobe as outfit formulas, every piece in your colors
  • A shopping guide: the color names to search for and the label words to skip
  • The "Does this suit me?" checker for anything you might buy
  • Your second season, and when to borrow from it
  • A PDF of the whole report, a swatch card, a phone wallpaper and a share card, saved to your account
See a sample report

What this foundation shade finder gives you

You get a depth family, an undertone code and the neighbors worth trying. On camera, the finder finds your face, asks you to hold up white paper so it can correct for your room’s light, and reads your cheek, forehead and jaw across several frames. Two quick questions follow, about which jewelry looks best on you and what color your wrist veins are. From a photo it skips the paper and estimates the light.

The result reads something like “Medium, neutral undertone” with a code of C, N, W or O for cool, neutral, warm or olive. It also lists the depths on either side, because no reading can place you exactly. It’s a reading from one picture in one light, and every number behind it is an estimate.

What you won’t get is a line like “your match is 220 Natural Beige”. Plenty of brand finders do that, within their own ranges, and we have no shade data to do it with. A camera also can’t see how a formula sits on skin. If you already wear a shade you like and want it translated across brands, Findation is built for that: you enter shades you’ve worn, and it matches across its list, which it puts at over 11,000 products and 107,000 shades.

Where our seven depths sit

The seven names are our own cut of the lightness scale, from the deepest skin to the fairest. Brand ranges use their own words and their own steps, so treat these as a rough position and no more. To give them a fixed reference, here they are beside the published Monk Skin Tone Scale, and beside what brands were actually selling in the one dataset we could find.

FairLightLight to mediumMediumTanDeepRichMonk tones in it12345none678910
US bestsellers, 6 products 1673045331721174
Fenty Pro Filt'r 4010865551
Make Up For Ever Ultra HD 4012985420
Nigerian bestsellers 50154141682
Japanese bestsellers 742828117000
Indian bestsellers 571721134110
Fig. 1Top row: which Monk swatches fall in each family, by the finder’s own function. Below: foundation swatches from brand sites in May 2018, collected by The Pudding, and counted by us into these seven bands from the hex codes they published. Swatches on a website are a rough proxy for a product on skin, as their authors say, and ranges have changed since. Monk Skin Tone Scale by Ellis Monk with Google, used under CC BY 4.0.

Two things stand out. One is that the Monk scale jumps straight past our Light to Medium band, because its swatches are spaced unevenly across lightness, so that family has no reference tone at all. The other is how unevenly shades were spread. Across six US bestsellers, 108 of 167 shades sat in the top three families and 4 in Rich. Fenty’s 40 had 1 in Rich, and Make Up For Ever’s 40 had 0. Japan’s bestsellers had nothing below Medium, while Nigeria’s had 30 of 50 in Medium and Tan.

The Pudding’s essay found this pattern first, and its data is public. It’s eight years old, so it can’t tell you what any counter stocks today. It does explain an experience you may have had. If you land in Deep or Rich, a range may simply offer fewer choices: 21 of 167 in that 2018 sample. A shade that’s close but not right may be the range’s limit and not your mistake, so try another range before you decide your skin is hard to match.

How to find your foundation shade: the jaw test

Your family narrows the search. Choosing a shade still takes a test on your skin, and it’s a simple one. Most of this follows L’Oréal Paris’s guide, which is sound even though it’s selling you something.

LighterYour familyDeeper
Fig. 2A drawing, not a person. Three stripes cross the jawline so each one touches both your face and your neck. The colors are our own illustration of a lighter, a middle and a deeper shade.
  1. Pick three. The shade closest to your family, one lighter and one deeper, all at the same undertone.
  2. Swatch across the jawline. Short stripes, side by side, from your lower cheek down onto your neck. Skip your hand and forearm, whose color is rarely the same as your face.
  3. Wait. Some formulas settle and deepen a little after a few minutes, so a shade that looks perfect right away can end up a touch dark.
  4. Take a mirror to a window. Store lighting and fluorescent tubes change how pigment looks. Check in daylight, and indoors as well if that’s where you’ll be seen.
  5. Keep the stripe that disappears. You should see where the stripe stops only because you know where you painted it.

Face, jaw or chest?

The jaw, because it joins your face to your neck, and what people notice is the line between them. If your face and body differ, because of sun or redness or a spray tan, L’Oréal suggests testing on the center of your upper chest to bring the two together. Our practical addition: if your cheeks read redder than your jaw, don’t match to the cheek, since that matches the flush and leaves a pink mask on your neck.

How to read the stripes

  • All three look too pink: you’re on the wrong undertone. Go a step more neutral or more yellow.
  • All three look too yellow or orange: the same in the other direction. Olive skin may find both pink and yellow wrong, which points to a neutral or an olive family.
  • The lean is right but it’s too light or too deep: stay on the same letter and move along the numbers.
  • It vanishes on your face and shows on your neck: go by your neck.

Why the same letter means different things

This is where most shade finders leave you stranded. “Warm” and “cool” on a bottle aren’t standardized. Here’s what the keys we could read actually say:

Undertone words in four brands’ own materials, and in our result. We couldn’t reopen M·A·C’s page for this table, so that row relies on the reading quoted on our warm undertones page.
SystemCool meansWarm meansOlive
L’Oréal ParisHints of blue or pinkMore golden or yellowNot named. Bottles use C, N or W.
Estée LauderRosy tone, burns easilyGolden or olive tone, tans easilyFiled under warm
Maybelline Fit MeOffered as a filter, not defined on this pageOffered as a filter, not defined on this pageNot named
M·A·CC is defined as goldenW is defined as rosyNot named
This finderC: pink, red or blue leanW: golden or peachy leanO: its own code

Read that M·A·C row twice. It runs opposite to the others. So a person with golden, warm skin who asks a M·A·C counter for a W shade goes the wrong way. We go through this properly on warm undertones and cool undertones, with M·A·C’s own words. For this page, the rule is simple: when you see a letter, ask what it means at that brand, and when in doubt describe your skin in plain words, rosy or golden, not warm or cool. What undertone means covers the background.

Numbers are no more portable than letters. A 220 in one line says nothing about a 220 in another, and two lines from the same brand can differ. That’s why you should expect a re-test every time you change products, even from the same counter.

What foundation shade am I if I’m olive?

The finder returns the O code when your skin reads olive, which it only does in the middle of the depth range, roughly Monk tones 6 and 7. Outside that band, olive skin will read as warm or neutral, so a Fair or Rich result with W or N can still hide an olive cast. If pink shades look like a mask and yellow ones look too bright, that’s the classic sign. IPSY’s artists describe exactly this. Try a neutral at your depth first, then look for a range with an olive family. The olive undertone page has more.

Do I need a different shade in summer?

If your skin changes, yes. L’Oréal suggests keeping one for cooler months and one a step or two deeper for summer. Because depth and lean are separate, a tan usually moves you along the numbers, and your letter stays about where it was. Run the finder again if your skin has changed, and use the same window, because the light matters as much as the tan does.

How far to trust the reading

Treat it as a place to start. The white paper step corrects for the color of your room’s light, but it can’t remove shadows, a phone’s own processing, or makeup you’re already wearing. Deep skin is where our evidence is thinnest, since nothing here has yet been tested on real people across the range. Measured lightness itself isn’t perfectly even to the eye. So use the neighbors the result suggests, and if a stripe disagrees with the reading, believe the stripe.

For a closer look at depth alone, use the skin tone test and the skin tone chart, and skin tones explained has the wider picture. When your base is settled, the lipstick shade finder lets you try shades on your own lips. The Full Color Report adds makeup shades chosen for your full palette.

Related guides and tools

Sources

  1. How to find your foundation color matchL'Oréal Paris
  2. Foundation finderEstée Lauder
  3. Fit Me Matte + Poreless Foundation MakeupMaybelline
  4. Beauty Brawl: the diversity of makeup shades, with its data. Li J, Thomas AThe Pudding, 2018
  5. shades.csv, foundation shades sampled from brand sites in May 2018The Pudding, on GitHub, 2018
  6. Findation: foundation color matchingFindation
  7. How to tell if you have olive skin, according to expert makeup artistsIPSY
  8. Foundation shade finderM·A·C Cosmetics
  9. Monk Skin Tone ScaleWikipedia

Common questions

How do I find my foundation shade?
Find your depth and undertone, pick three shades around them in the brand you want, and swatch short stripes along your jaw and onto your neck. Let them dry for a few minutes, take a mirror to a window, and keep the one that disappears on both.
What do NC and NW mean?
They're M·A·C codes. By M·A·C's own key, W means rosy and C means golden, the reverse of most brands, and N is a balance of both. Its page doesn't spell out NC and NW separately, so test on your jaw. Golden skin usually belongs on the NC side and rosy skin on the NW side.
Should I match foundation to my face or my neck?
Match along the jaw, so the shade blends into both. If your face and neck differ, lean toward your neck, or test on your upper chest as L'Oréal Paris suggests. Avoid matching to a flushed cheek, or you'll carry that pink down to where it doesn't belong.
Why does my shade look different in another brand?
Brands set their own depth steps and undertone words, and formulas differ in pigment and in how they settle on skin. A number or a letter doesn't carry over. If you need to translate a shade, a cross-brand tool such as Findation is a good start, then test the result on your jaw.
Does the finder tell me which product to buy?
No. It gives you a depth family and an undertone code, because a camera can't honestly promise a match with a specific bottle. Use the family to narrow what you test, and any brand's own finder to shortlist products in its range.
What if none of the shades match?
Try another range, since some have far fewer shades at the deepest and lightest ends. Mixing two shades is a common fix when you fall between them. If everything looks too pink or too yellow, look for a neutral or olive family.